|
|
Because of Patsy Ann's unerring sense of the imminent arrival of each ship and her faithful welcome at the dock, she was dubbed the "official greeter of Juneau" in 1934.
Ships arriving in Juneau in the 1930's could count on being met at the dock by a small white dog named Patsy Ann. She became a popular dog-about-town, making the rounds of shops and offices where she was welcomed and given treats.
Steamships of that era did not arrive like clockwork as they do today. Juneau knew when a ship was coming when Patsy Ann dropped whatever she was doing and trotted briskly to the waterfront. Although deaf from birth, she somehow sensed when an incoming ship was about a half-mile away. She also had an uncanny abity to determine the dock where it would moor. On one occasion, a crowd had gathered to meet an arriving ship. Patsy Ann studied the group for a long moment, then turned and trotted to another dock. The ship tied up next to Patsy Ann.
by Terry Breen
www.terryslog.com
Make the most of your Alaskan cruise with www.terryslog.com where you'll find everything to enjoy your days at sea and in port!
• Current Weather
• Port maps and information
• Updated port events and activities
• Points of interest, shopping and dining
• Fun Facts and Figures on "Alaska: the Great Land!"
Juneau is a challenge as there is a multitude of things to see and do; the good thing is that it is usually the longest day in port giving you plenty of time to fulfill your wish list.
The background of beautiful mountains and snow-clad peaks makes Juneau one of the most beautiful state capitols in the country. It is also the only capitol with a glacier in its backyard; the Mendenhall Glacier, just 13 miles from the State Capitol Building.
From your ship you are just steps from the Mountain Robert's Tramway where the view of Gastineau Channel is unsurpassed. A wander down Franklin Street will take you into the heart of downtown with all its historic buildings and colorful, quirky businesses. Just above Heritage Coffee don't miss the wonderful world of Wm. Spears and his incredible collection of hand-crafted pins. Among the hidden gems of downtown is the Doll Museum, free admission and definitely worth a look.
Downtown is where you'll find the State Capitol Building, the Juneau-Douglas City Museum and the Alaska State Museum. Not far away on Calhoun is the Governor's Mansion. But if museums aren't your thing then maybe you’d like to go out to the Alaska Brewing Company and see how they make their famous Alaskan Amber? They offer tours and tastings!
Juneau 2012 population 31, 275
Juneau is located on the Gastineau Channel between Douglas Island to the west and the Coast Mountains. It is the gateway to many natural wonders like the Juneau Icefield, Mendenhall Glacier, the whales of Auke Bay, the bears of Taku Lodge, the trails and vistas of Mt. Roberts, and much more. To the east the Juneau Icefield, is an immense field of compact glacial ice that feeds over 37 different glaciers including the Mendenhall, Taku, Norris, and Hole-in-the Wall glaciers – featured on many excursions including helicopter flights over the glacier and dog-sledding. To the north is lovely Auke Bay, where humpback whales relax and frolic in the sheltered waters after a busy day feeding. If whale watching is one of your priorities you won't want to miss the excursions offered here; they are some of the best in Southeast Alaska.
TOURING & EXPLORING
Mendenhall Glacier – How many cities boast a glacier in its backyard? Well, the capitol of the State of Alaska can. Located in the Mendenhall Valley13 miles away from downtown, the glacier is one of over thirty flowing down from the Juneau Icefield. Here are several ways to get out to the Visitor's center; the first is to take a tour that includes a stop at the glacier, next option is to take one of the blue glacier shuttle busses that charge for the round-trip transfer and finally for those on a limited budget, you can take the Mendenhall Valley city bus for $1.50 out to the end of the run. The bus will drop you off within a mile of the Visitor’s Center.
Mt. Roberts Tramway - Not to be missed is the tram ride up Mt. Roberts, a corporation owned and operated by the Native Goldbelt Corporation. Not only are the views spectacular, but there are trails, restaurants, an interpretive center, shops, and a movie about Tlingit history.
State Museum – The state museum has an excellent collection of natural history exhibits as well as cultural history representing the four Native American cultural groups within the state. Throughout the summer touring exhibits and installations may be available. Museum also has an excellent gift shop and bookstore.
St. Nicholas’ Russian Orthodox Church – Located on 5th Street, it is the oldest Russian Orthodox church in Southeast. The octagonal building with a gold onion dome was built in 1894 in Siberia, disassembled, and rebuilt in Juneau.
FUN and FREE
The Chamber of Commerce and Convention and Visitor's Bureau have prepared a walking tour map to guide you through the streets of downtown Juneau; but here are a few insider's tips of free things to see and do that are not on the map.
Alaska State Capitol Building – I don't know of any other state capitol building that you can just walk into and look around; open doors, hang-out. Well, welcome to Alaska. The Capitol building is open to the public and free. There are free guided tours but visitors are allowed to roam the halls and look at the incredible collection of archival photographs and paintings.
Goat watching – I know this may sound silly, but on Mt. Juneau, the peak behind town to the northwest, there are always mountain goats. But they are so high up you need binoculars to see them. The local townsfolk knowing these guys are up there set-up two permanently placed telescopes fixed on the peak specifically to look for goats. You will find the scopes at the end of the Marine Park boardwalk, north of the library.
Franklin Street - As you are heading back downtown, note the facades of the buildings, which reflect the city’s pride as it blossomed with the responsibility of state government. However, some of the more rustic buildings date back to the boom times of the gold rush. In 1914, there were 30 bars on Franklin Street, which says a lot about the town's priorities back then. Today, the old Alaskan Hotel at 167 South Franklin, built in 1913, is one of the treasures of the city. The interior makes you feel like you've stepped back in time. Up the street, visit the Baranof Hotel to see an excellent example of Art Deco architecture in Alaska. Most people, however, want to visit the world famous Red Dog Saloon. The original Red Dog burned down, but the new building located across from the library is a fun place for locals and visitors alike.
The Patsy Ann Statue: While you are looking at the goats stop by and pay your respects to the statue of Patsy Ann. In the 1930’s, the locals named a deaf, homeless dog Patsy Ann; she showed up every day a ship tied up at the dock. Not only was she there, she was always waiting at the correct one of seven docks. In 1937, the mayor made her the "Official Greeter" of Juneau and exempted her from licensing. The statue of Patsy Ann located along the boardwalk behind the telescopes was raised in loving memory of her.
Aunt Claudia's Dolls, a Museum – This is a little gem that slips under the radar of most visitors; located upstairs at 114 South Franklin above Hearthside Books, this free museum is maintained as part of a trust from the women whose collection is displayed. In addition you will enjoy meeting Mary Ellen Frank who is the "curator"; herself an internationally recognized doll artist. A real treasure and worth a few minutes of your time.
OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
Juneau is the best place for a glacier adventure; you can take a helicopter, floatplane, fixed-wing plane or bus to have a glacier experience just minutes from downtown. The Coast Mountains rise higher and higher as they arc over the Southeastern portion of the state; above 6,000 feet precipitation falls as snow, so in the mountains behind Juneau, snow is falling all year long which contributes to the number of glaciers accessible from the Capitol City. Take advantage of this wonder of nature on this part of your cruise.
Flight-seeing over a glacier – Juneau and Skagway are your only two ports in Southeast Alaska that offer flight-seeing programs over glaciers. Whether you chose to fly over a glacier with a fixed wing plane or take a helicopter and land on glacial ice, you are in for an experience of a lifetime.
Dog-sledding – One of the quintessential Alaskan experiences is dog-sledding or mushing as it is called up here. Due to the popularity of the Iditarod, people all around the world associate Alaska with dog-sledding. From Juneau fly up to the Juneau Icefield where teams of dogs await at the ready-made sledding camp. Drive your own sled or cuddle the countless puppies eager to see new faces.
WILDLIFE ENCOUNTER
The best whale watching excursions available are from Juneau. Local tour operators use special whale-watching boats built in Alaska designed specifically to be environmentally friendly without disturbing or disrupting habitat.
Whale watching – The waters in Auke Bay north of Juneau are one of the favorite feeding grounds throughout the summer for humpback whales. Whale watching trips departing from Juneau are apt to see not only whales but sea lions, eagles and even bears set against a back-drop of snow covered mountains and glaciers. Many of the evening whale watching trips include a sumptuous table of treats from salmon and salads to fresh baked breads and dessert. For die-hard whale watchers you can’t beat Juneau based Orca Enterprises and Capt. Larry’s crew. (Incredible photo of humpback lunge-feeding courtesy of Capt. Larry!)
RESTAURANTS and LOCAL TREATS
Since becoming a territory, legislators are known to wheel and deal over dinner or a drink in one of Juneau’s many restaurants or watering holes. Consequently, there are a few. They range from upscale and refined to downright basic and bawdy. Don't forget that Alaska’s favorite brew is from Juneau – tours and tastings are available at the Alaska Brewing Company.
Taku Lodge – This place, this experience is so special I actually took my mother in her wheelchair up to the Lodge because I knew she would never forget it – the floatplane trip, the view of the glaciers, the bears eating salmon off the grill and the of course, the incredible spread of mouth-watering food. It is the perfect Alaskan culinary experience. If someone tells you, "it’s just lunch" – they have never been!
Heritage House - Alaskans are almost as fanatical about coffee as Seattlites. One of the best coffee houses in the state is Heritage House. With several locations in Juneau, the largest and most popular is at 174 S. Franklin.
Alaskan Brewing Company – Juneau is home to the Alaskan Brewing Company maker of such favorites as Alaskan Amber, Pale Ale and Summer. For those interested in a local micro-brewery that has become a big success – come sample one of the tastes of Alaska!
WALKS & HIKES
Juneau is a great place for a hike. The city is surrounded by mountains. You can take the tram up Mt. Roberts and walk among alpine meadows or follow the Perseverance Trail and walk in the footsteps of gold miners and prospectors.
Explore on your own – Easy
For those interested in exploring on foot, you can pick up a walking tour map prepared by the Convention and Visitors Bureau. There is an information booth located at the cruise pier next to the Mt. Roberts Tram and the library.
Mt. Roberts trails – Easy to strenuous
Rising directly up from behind the cruise docks is Mt. Roberts. The peak is 3,819 ft (1164 m) in elevation and is accessed by the Mt. Roberts tramway. For those of you looking for a breathtaking view of Gastineau Channel and a chance to walk among alpine forests, this is your chance. Trails at the top of the tram range from easy walks to moderately strenuous hikes. Weather and snow permitting you can hike to the cross at the summit or venture no further than some of the nearby look-out platforms. Be sure to stop by the visitor's center at the trail head and pick-up a pamphlet on the trees and native medicinal plants you might identify along the way.
For the more fit and active, you can actually hike up (or down) the trail all the up the mountain. Be sure to bring good walking or hiking shoes and be prepared for muddy spots on the trail.
Perseverance National Recreational Trail – easy to moderate
As one of the most popular and historic trails in the state, Perseverance is beautiful, educational and just a few blocks from the cruise docks. As one of the major routes used to the Silverbow Basin, the trail served several mining outfits. Today throughout its 3.5 mile length it is a virtual open-air museum of mining artifacts dating back to Joe Juneau and Dick Harris. Well-packed trail, not muddy. Good shoes or boots recommended.
Tracy Arm
Coordinates: 57° 50' N, 133° 35' W
For many years, Tracy Arm remained the secret paradise of locals who had the area to themselves. Tracy Arm is not a national or state park; it is an open, unregulated wilderness area. Little by little, smaller expeditionary ships began to include this storybook fjord in their itineraries. Now many larger ships prudently navigate the narrow waterway to offer their guests a chance to behold some of the most spectacular scenery in Southeast Alaska.
Like Misty Fjords, Tracy Arm is a glacially created valley that has been filled in by the sea. It is 29 miles in length, approx. 1.5 miles in width, and about 700 feet deep. But unlike Misty Fjords, there is still an active glacier at the end of the fjord. Sawyer Glacier is not an exceptionally large glacier but it is known for producing very large, beautiful, deep blue ice bergs.
Every minute in Tracy Arm is spectacular. Upon arrival, weather permitting, you will be in view of Sumdum Glacier to the southeast or the starboard side of the ship. The name is a Tlingit name. Many years ago the glacier touched the sea. Today it ends on dry land. You can spot the glacial ice by the crevasses and the ice color. To enter into Tracy Arm you must cross Holkham Bay. Your ship will round Harbor Island before making its approach into Tracy Arm. Off to the south, past Sumdum Glacier, is Endicott Arm. Like Tracy Arm it is also a fjord. The two bodies of water were named by Lieut. Commander H.B. Mansfield to honor Civil War military figure Benjamin Franklin Tracy, who was the Secretary of the Navy from 1889–1893, and William Endicott, who was Secretary of War from1885–1889.
Crossing the Bar. Notice the build-up of ice in front of the ship. It’s as though these huge ice bergs have beached themselves on some hidden underwater wall. Well, that’s exactly what has happened. The submerged moraine at the beginning of Tracy Arm is very high – it is known as "the bar." At low tide you can actually see the exposed top. Buoys mark the very narrow channel through which large ships must pass. During strong tidal periods, the current moves through very quickly creating whirlpools and eddies; sometimes the buoys may be pulled down under water. Don't be surprised if your ship tilts a little going through. If there is too much ice built up at the bar, your Captain may not be able to enter. In the end, it's all about safety.
Starting in 2008, cruise ships visiting Tracy Arm have been asked to observe the following guidelines as put forth by the Tongass National Forest Wilderness Best Management Practices for Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness. The following operations will be minimized;
• Outside announcements to preserve the peace and quiet.
• Visible ship emissions to maintain clean air standards.
• Unnecessary navigation that disturbs wildlife.